FLORENCE
| A
visit to Florence (Firenze) is a must for any art lover. UNESCO estimates that
60% of the world’s most important artworks are in Italy, with over half of
them located in Florence. Situated in the northwest of Italy, surrounded by the
wine-growing hills of Chianti, the city attracts rapture and frustration in equal
proportions. Few can dismiss the image of Brunelleschi’s cathedral dome bursting
through the morning mist – a terracotta balloon hovering above the medieval
rooftops. But once the visitor drops down to street level, the profusion of traffic,
tourists and touts can remove all sense of tranquillity. It seems every building
holds a masterpiece, demanding attention and often gobbling up funds. The streets
are narrow and dark, enclosed on either side by granite palaces and even the open
spaces are crowded with babbling tour groups. |
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| Often
called the cradle of the Renaissance, Florence owes much of her wealth to the
Middle Ages. Banking became big business on the back of the city’s profitable
wool trade and, in 1235, Florence minted the florin, the first gold coin to become
standard currency across Europe. In their turn, these bankers commissioned some
of the finest art and architecture in the city. The names Strozzi, Rucellai and
Pitti can be found all over Florence but it was the Medici family – who led
the city for over 300 years, off and on – that nurtured the greatest flowering
of Renaissance art. The paintings of Botticelli, the sculptures of Michelangelo
and the rusticated palaces of Michelozzo all flourished under their rule. Then,
as now, most of the action in Florence took place between Piazza del Duomo and
Piazza della Signoria, the city’s civic heart. Here, in the historic centre,
Dante – forefather of the Italian language – first glimpsed his muse,
Beatrice. Here, the Florentine Republic rose and fell. And here, Savonarola’s
Bonfire of the Vanities blazed. Florence, for all her timeless charm, is no stranger
to destruction. | |
In 1944, all her bridges, save the Ponte Vecchio, were bombed by the Nazis, in
an attempt to stall the advance of the allies. In 1966, the banks of the River
Arno burst, flooding the city with her muddied waters and devastating homes and
artwork. Most recently, in 1993, a bomb exploded near the Uffizi Gallery, ripping
through the museum’s interior and claiming several lives.That said, the only
violence most tourists are likely to witness is during the medieval football match
on 24 June – Florence’s patron saint day – when petty wrangles
often spill onto the pitch. It is best for visitors to avoid the peak summer months
of July and August, when the weather can be unbearably sticky and the prospect
of trailing around museums becomes unappealing. Early autumn, when the countryside
glows with mellow fruitfulness, is the best time to visit, avoiding the heat and
the queues and capitalising on the soft light, empty streets and the abundance
of wild mushrooms and just-pressed olive oil. |
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Culture
It seems that Florence
could never lose her reputation as a city of culture. Florence was positioned
at the very centre of the Renaissance – home to some of the greatest artists
and thinkers who ever lived – and the beauty of the art, architecture and
ideas that came from this city live on. The biggest cultural event in Florence
is the international Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, which welcomes top names from
the music and ballet worlds. The next event is set to take place from 11 May to
1 July 2003. Visitors should keep an eye open for one-off recitations played in
churches and piazzas around the city. Posters are pinned up outside the venue
and tickets are available at the door. The
entertainment publication, Firenze Spettacolo, and free-listings publication Florence
Today, distributed twice a month, both provide listings on entertainment in the
city. Agenzia Box Office, Via Luigi Alamanni (tel: (055) 210 804; website: www.boxoffice.it),
Via Porta Rossa 82r (tel: (055) 219 402), or Viale Giannotti 13r (tel: (055) 680
362), sells most other tickets. Music:
Florence can claim a couple of musical firsts. Not only was the first piano invented
in the city, by Bartolomeo Crostoferi, but also the first ever opera, Daphne,
was performed here in 1598, at the home of Jacopo Corsi. Unfortunately the score
does not survive and Florence has not maintained its early influence on the operatic
form. Today’s opera season opens in September and is held chiefly at the
Teatro Comunale, Corso Italia 16 (tel: (055) 211 158 or (0577) 223 806 or (800)
112 211; website: www.maggiofiorentino.com),
on the banks of the Arno. L’Orchestra del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino (website:
www.maggiofiorentino.com/emagho.htm
is the city’s main orchestra, which plays at the Teatro Communale. Chamber
music can be heard most weekends at the Teatro della Pergola, Via della Pergola
(tel: (055) 22641 or (055) 226 4316; website: www.pergola.firenze.it),
an ornate 17th-century theatre that also stages classical concerts and opera.
Theatre: The
Teatro della Pergola (see above) and the Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99 (tel:
(055) 212 320; website: www.teatroverdifirenze.it
), are the two chief venues for drama in Florence. Most performances are conducted
in Italian, so a good understanding of the language is vital. Performances are
typically productions of classic Italian dramas or foreign plays in translation,
interspersed with the occasional contemporary production. Tickets are available
at respective theatre box offices. Other
city theatres include Teatro Puccini, Piazza Puccini (tel: (055) 362 067; website:
www.teatropuccini.it),
home to Off Theatre, for a variety of performances from opera to new plays. There
are new Italian dramas at Teatro di Rifredi, Via V. Emanuele 303 (tel: (055) 422
0361; website: www.toscanateatro.it),
and experimental theatre at Teatro Studio di Scandicci, Via Donizetti 58 (tel:
(055) 757 348; website: www.scandiccicultura.org). Dance:
The annual Florence Dance Festival (tel: (055) 289 276; website: www.florencedance.org)
was first conceived in 1990, although its future remains under threat, due to
lack of funding. The festival aims to bring some of the best names in contemporary
and classical dance to Florence, with an annual contest for emerging choreographers.
Performances usually run for a month in July and are held in outdoor venues, such
as Piazzale Michelangelo and the Teatro Romano in Fiesole. Ballet performances
also take place during the Maggio Fiorentino festival, at various venues, throughout
the year. Information and tickets are available from the Teatro del Maggio Musicale
Fiorentino, Corso Italia 16 (tel: (055) 211 158 or 213 535; fax: (055) 277 9410;
website: www.maggiofiorentino.com).
The cinema is
heavily patronised in the city and for those who speak Italian, there is a real
treat in store at the Odeon Cinehall (tel: (055) 214 068; website: www.cinehall.it),
a stunning Art Nouveau theatre in Piazza Strozzi. Original language films are
shown on Monday and Tuesday, with tickets costing around €7. English speakers
can take a trip to the Astao, Piazza San Simone, near Santa Croce, or Goldoni,
Via Serragli 109 (tel: (055) 222 437), where original-language films are shown
on Thursday. Cinema tickets cost around €6, often dropping to €4 on
Wednesday. More original language films are shown on Thursday at Cinema Fulgor,
Via Maso Finiguerra (tel: (055) 238 1881). Cultural
events: The Maggio Musicale Fiorentino (tel: 800 112 211; website: www.maggiofiorentino.com),
which takes place from May to early July each year, forms the crux of Florence’s
cultural calendar. The festival has been going for over 60 years and is presided
over by its homegrown orchestra and dance company. L’Orchestra del Maggio
Musical Fiorentino has achieved international recognition under the watchful eye
of conductor Zubin Mehta – famous for his performances with the Three Tenors.
Most of the performances are held at the Teatro Comunale (see above), also the
central booking point for the festival. Some events are held outdoors in cloisters,
piazzas and Boboli Gardens. Tickets for standing room only are available for purchase
one hour before the performance begins for €11, while pre-booked tickets
start at around €15.50. |
